In this French Victorian brooch in silver with an 18ct red gold back, the 140 rose-cut diamonds azure-set all over the chestnut leaf sire a levity as present as in a pair of fallen autumn leaves whirling weightlessly in the wind. A red gold pin with a pearl on top and a pearl, where the leaf’s nerves diverge, spears through the uppermost leaflet to make sure this jewel from 1870 doesn’t get swept away.

Antique jewellery object group: brooch

Condition: excellent condition

Country of origin: France

Style: Victorian – Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.

Style specifics: The Grand Victorian Period – Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 – 1901) into three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 – 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 – 1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 – 1901).

We consider this to be of the Grand Victorian Period.

This second Victorian period is famous for its ostentatious pieces set with pearls and diamonds (from South Africa). From ca. 1850 wealthy English had reported about jewelry from India and Japan, which heavily inspired the jewelers of this period. This period also corresponds with the death of Queen Victoria’s husband King Albert making mourning jewelry (set with heavy dark stones) the type of jewelry specific for this period.

Period: ca. 1870

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature

Theme: chestnut leaf

Material: Silver on top and backed with 18ct red gold.

Diamonds: 140 rose-cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
Note: All diamond weights, colour grades and clarity are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Precious stones: Two pearls

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April and pearl for June.

Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18ct gold representing an eagle’s head that was in use in France from about 1838.

Dimensions: length 6,90 cm (2,72 inch), width 3,40 cm (1,34 inch)

Weight: 12,30 gram (7,91 dwt)