Edwardian Jewellery in 1901-1910

The reign of King Edward VII, which defines this brief nine year period, was a time of relative peace and prosperity. In jewellery terms it sits alongside the latter half of the Art Nouveau movement but stylistically has virtually nothing in common with it.

The jewellery we associate with the Edwardians is formal and traditional but compared to Victorian styles it is much lighter and more open, characterised by the rise of platinum as the jeweller’s metal of choice and a monochromatic look achieved with prolific use of diamonds and pearls.

Platinum was much harder than the silver which had, until now, been the white metal used to set diamonds. It meant that settings became increasingly delicate and refined as less metal was required to hold stones securely and it could all but disappear into the background allowing the stones to take centre stage.

Finely pierced, open, lacy designs that looked almost cobweb like in comparison to 19th Century jewels were now possible and it isn’t an exaggeration to say that the use of this metal in fine jewellery revolutionised its design.

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Baroque, Rococo and Neo-Classical influences all combine in what is referred to as the Garland Style with its distinctive swags, curls, wreathes and drops fashioned from leaves, ribbons and floral motifs.

Edwardian diamond drop earrings, with bow tops, three diamonds divided by knife edges, between two diamond set leaves, with a crescent circle, surrounding a pendant old-cut diamond, circa 1900.

These frequently complex and ornate designs were set throughout with a multitude of round diamonds, often within millegrained edges, and highlighted with creamy white pearls in round, bouton and drop shapes as well as softly coloured stones such as aquamarine. Improvements in cutting techniques meant that diamonds were becoming ever more symmetrical in both outline and proportions and experimentation with different shapes saw the pear and marquise begin to feature in jewellery by the end of the period.

Pearls at this time were still all natural and tiny seed pearls were particularly popular, knitted or twisted together to form long necklaces or bracelets highlighted with diamond set platinum bars. They were
also used to make tassels which were very fashionable suspended from the end of long sautoirs. Other popular necklace styles were the negligee with its two parallel, uneven length drops hanging from a central, typically horizontal motif and pastel coloured guilloche enamel pendants decorated with diamonds which would sometimes feature interchangeable enamel discs in different colours which would allow a lady to always co-ordinate her jewels with her outfit!

Tiaras in various sizes were still popular for formal wear along with decorative hair combs, diamond bands and even brooches which were used to ornament and embellish the elegant hair styles of the period. Rings were worn in multiples and favoured styles included solitaires, two stone cross overs, clusters with a central diamond or coloured gem surrounded by smaller diamonds as well as larger dressier rings in dome shapes with delicate details and piercing, sometimes referred to as filigree.

The style of jewellery during this period was mirrored in France where it was referred to as Belle Époque and sometimes you’ll hear this term used in reference to Edwardian jewellery. It remained en vogue up until the outbreak of war in 1914 and when peace returned an entirely different style of jewellery would come to replace it although diamonds and platinum would retain their sparkling allure.