Spectacular Antique Victorian Diamond Tiara with Diamond Star - c.1890

Victorian diamond star tiara made c.1890. The tiara will come in a fully fitted presentation case as photographed.Upon pondering what could be the definitive image and symbol of crown jewels, iconic and epitomising fine jewellery, one may be hard-pressed to come up with something more iconic than a tiara. It is perhaps exactly this portrayal and image which makes one so alluring and enchanting - whether be it from the imagery of a princess or as a symbol of prosperity, nobility and elegance, there is something undeniably extraordinary about tiaras that could be seen as a 'grail' piece for many.

This particular tiara features an almost picture-perfect design that one may imagine upon hearing the term 'tiara' with a stunning central diamond star and a complimenting diamond set bow-shaped section underneath which raises the star by just the right amount upon wearing.

A notable and iconic figure of tiaras and diamond stars, Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi 1837-1898) popularised the use of star jewellery after her marriage with Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria in 1854, when she received a Diamond Star Tiara and subsequently ordered further diamond and pearl stars from the court jeweller Köchert which were famously painted by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, paired with a Worth ballgown decorated with stars.

The central star is adorned with various sizes of old European cut diamonds, tapering in size and meticulously set within the finest and unobstructive gold/silver mounts.

Furthermore, this section can be unscrewed from the tiara frame to be worn as a brooch or pendant for occasions that may require less extravagance. Although the tiara itself is of modest form and tone making it suitable for many a special occasion, the fact that it can be easily converted into another piece is remarkably versatile and also a testament to the haute-jewellery making of the period.

In addition to its idyllic design, the quality of the craftsmanship is very impressive. The mounts are very fine, maximising the diamond's glistening effect and enhancing its overall appearance. The intricacy of how the diamonds are set and the pointed tips of the star display a high level of goldsmithing, unlike some heavily 'weighted down' mount designs. The central diamond is approximately 0.7ct and the total estimated diamond weight is 4.5ct.

The discerning choice to use rose-cut diamonds for the bow section underneath creates a subtle contrast with a slight difference in reflection. Such attention to detail in addition to its convertible mechanism not only makes this tiara a wonderful symbolic piece of Victorian jewellery but also a marvel from an artisanal perspective.  

Such tiaras are rightly associated with regality and nobility for they often were commissioned for notable families with not only the wealth to order bespoke pieces but also status with which occasions to adorn such pieces presented themselves; whether be it for a wedding, ball or state dinner. As such, these pieces were often passed down through generations and well-kept as a family heirloom.

Whilst traditionally, tiaras would be only worn by married women often gifted on their wedding day and for the above-mentioned occasions, we believe today, their versatility and flexibility are much less customary and more in question with how appropriate it may aesthetically be. Owing to its size and design, this tiara could be dressed up or down depending on the occasion and clothing which allows for it to not only be a display piece but hopefully a piece worn with joy and gratification.

The tiara is unmarked as is common with articles of this period and as such we have tested the diamonds and mounts to verify their composition/medium. The mount is backed with 18ct gold and the rest of the frame is in silver. 

Overall, a true statement piece that speaks for itself regardless of occasion, era or setting. 

*All images with other items are for display purposes, this listing is for the title item only. 

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