Victorian Diamond Articulated Choker Necklace in 9 Carat Gold and Silver, Circa 1860

An exceptional Romantic Victorian choker, circa 1860, featuring over 13 carats of natural diamonds in a lyrical composition of open scrolls and articulated drops. What sets this jewel apart is its remarkable use of old brilliant cuts throughout—eschewing the more common rose cuts, even for the tiniest stones. Once convertible into a tiara, the necklace’s regal poise and delicate detailing evoke candlelit evenings and whispered conversation. Impressive yet finely wrought, this piece bridges stately grandeur with sentimental elegance, offering a rare chance to wear history at the neckline.

Condition
Very good condition

Country of origin
Unknown. Despite careful examination, no hallmarks or distinctive features could be identified that would allow us to attribute this jewel to a specific country. Its materials and construction, however, do allow us to confidently date it to around 1860.

Period
Circa 1860 — Romantic Victorian

Material
9 carat pink gold and silver (touchstone tested). A typical 19th-century combination, where silver was often used to enhance the brilliance of diamonds while gold formed the structural base.

Technique
Originally designed to be worn as both a choker and a tiara. While the original frame is no longer present, its construction suggests it could be remade if desired.

Extra information
Unusually, even the tiniest stones in this necklace are brilliant-cut rather than rose-cut — a rare feature in pieces of this age and style.

Precious stones
• 1 old brilliant cut diamond, estimated weight approximately 1.75 carat, colour and clarity H/J, VVS/VS
• 3 old mine brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total weight approximately 2.15 carat, colour and clarity H/J, VVS/VS
• 33 old mine brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total weight approximately 4.15 carat
• 191 single brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total weight approximately 4.93 carat

Total number of diamonds: 228
Estimated total diamond weight: approx. 13.03 carat (average colour and clarity: F/I, VS/SI)

- Weight, colour and clarity were assessed while the stones remained set, in order to maintain the jewel’s original condition. The values given should therefore be considered expert approximations.
- Every diamond in this piece has been examined and confirmed as 100% natural by the IJGC laboratory. 

Hallmarks
No hallmarks present. The necklace was carefully examined, but no visible or legible marks could be identified. In our practice, it is not uncommon to encounter jewellery without hallmarks. For this reason, all pieces are tested with the touchstone, even when hallmarks are present.

Dimensions
Total length: 40.50 cm (15.94 in); centrepiece depth: 5.00 cm (1.97 in)

Weight
37.10 grams (23.86 dwt)