Antique Edwardian Natural Pearl and Diamond Princess Necklace

Everyone's astonishment at this princess necklace with a platinum peacock plume pendant out of typical Edwardian hand-sawn lace is indescribable. Its intricate craftsmanship radiates from the central natural orient pearl over alternating halos of 96 brilliant and rose-cut diamonds and platinum brocade to the delicate gleam of 59 degrading natural orient pearls. Vertically through the plume, there's a row of diamonds that opens up like a curtain and unveils a subtle scenery of diamond-encrusted leaves in the tip. The supremacy of this mesmerizing jewel lies even more in the refinement of the back, in the pierced closure set with 29 brilliant and rose-cut diamonds and in the complementing 18ct white gold cable chain. In every single element of this timeless pendant is worthy of adoration until eternity.

Antique jewellery object group: necklace and pendant

Country of origin: France

Style: Edwardian

Style specifics: The fineness of line and lacey aspect of the piece are typical for the Edwardian period.

Period: ca. 1910

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature

Theme: Peacock plumage - Peacocks were also associated with the ancient Greek goddess Hera and Hindu God Murugan and Krishna. In the Middle Ages, Christians sometimes used the peacock in art to symbolize the idea of immortality - this may have been because it was believed that the flesh of a peacock did not decay after death. (from: Wikipedia)

Material: Pendant and closure are platinum and chain is 18ct white gold (chain is of later date)

Extra information 01: Although we cannot say with certainty who is the maker of this piece, we have strong indications that it could be made by Soler Cabot. Soler Cabot is a well-known "Haute Joaillerie" house from Barcelona, Spain. Established in 1842 and still run by the family (at the time of writing this text -in 2019- already the 7th generation).

The Cabot dynasty began in Llavaneras, as jewellers who had been registered for several generations in the volumes of the Royal Academy of Silversmiths of the city of Mataró. The family's registrations date back to 1662, but earlier documents exist that place the origins of the dynasty around the year 1543.

The first jeweller's opens at Calle Argenteria no.35 in Barcelona, next to the cathedral of Santa Maria del Mar. Francesc Cabot i Ferrer starts creating religious objects and traditional period jewellery in Barcelona.

The indications we have to assign this to Soler Cabot is that we have seen some work of this house made in the very same strong design and execution as our piece here.

Extra information 02: The chain is of later date which is not uncommon with old pieces.

Diamonds: 87 old mine brilliant-cut diamonds (86 in pendant and one in closure) with a total estimated weight of approx. 3.00 crt.and 37 rose cut diamonds (nine in pendant and 28 in closure). We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
Note: All diamond weights, colour grades and clarity are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Precious stones:60 natural orient pearls

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April and pearl for June.

Hallmarks: The French control mark representing a rhinoceros' head that was in use in France from about 1847.

Condition: excellent condition

Dimensions: height pendant 6.40 cm (2.52 inch), length chain 42.00 cm (16.54 inch)

Weight: 23.40 gram (15.05 dwt)