In an openwork 18ct red gold cadre, a meticulously carved hardstone cameo with a black enamelled rim is framed within this French Victorian pendant as well as brooch from 1870. As the lady’s profile has roses in her hair and as the frame holds two half seed pearls, no detail has been spared to enrich this classical jewel.

Antique jewellery object group: brooch and pendant, at the back of the jewel a hinge with a ring is attached to use it as a pendant when wanted

Condition: excellent condition

Country of origin: France

Style: Victorian – Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.

Style specifics: The Grand Victorian Period – Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 – 1901) into three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 – 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 – 1880),and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 – 1901).

We consider this to be of the Grand Victorian Period.

This second Victorian period is famous for its ostentatious pieces set with pearls and diamonds (from South Africa). From ca. 1850 wealthy English had reported about jewellery from India and Japan, which heavily inspired the jewellers of this period. This period also corresponds with the death of Queen Victoria’s husband King Albert making mourning jewellery (set with heavy dark stones) the type of jewellery specific for this period.

Period: ca. 1870

Theme: female head with wreath and flowers in hair

Material: 18ct red gold

Technique (01): Cameo is a method of carving of an item of jewellery or vessel made in this manner. It features a raised (positive) relief image. There are three main materials for Cameo carving; Shells or Agate (called a Hardstone cameo), and glass. Cameos can be produced by setting a carved relief, such as a portrait, onto a background of a contrasting colour. This is called an assembled cameo. Alternately, a cameo can be carved directly out of a material with integral layers or banding, such as (banded) agate or layered glass, where different layers have different colours. Sometimes dyes are used to enhance these colours. Cameos are often worn as jewellery. Stone cameos of great artistry were made in Greece dating back as far as the 6th century BC. They were very popular in Ancient Rome, and one of the most famous stone cameos from this period is the Gemma Claudia made for Emperor Claudius. The technique has since enjoyed periodic revivals, notably in the early Renaissance, and again in the 17th, 18thand 19th centuries.

Technique (02): Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enamelling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colourful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, “an enamel” is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coatings, such as a champlev√© or a cloisonn√© (different techniques).

Precious stones: cameo Two half seed pearls

Birthstones: Pearl is the birthstone (or month stone) for June.

Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18ct gold representing an eagle’s head that was in use in France from about 1838.

Dimensions: height as brooch 5,05 cm (1,99 inch), height as pendant 5,57 cm (2,19 inch)

Weight: 27,80 gram (17,88 dwt)