Antique Victorian French Diamond Five Point Star Brooch

As if our wish upon a star came true when the 76 silver-encrusted diamonds in this 18ct red gold French Victorian brooch lit up the Garden of Adin.
In each arm of this five-pointed star, five radiant diamonds increase from the tip up to the climax of a central old European cut diamond of 0.55ct. Between each of the five rays of diamond starlight, a leaflet wavers to a diamond peaking from amidst the star’s prongs.
Notice how very remarkable it is that this jewel is almost completely embellished with full-cut diamonds in contrast with other celestial jewellery pieces, which are mostly encrusted with rose-cut diamonds with only the larger diamonds as full cuts. Sothis 5.75ct. of diamonds will shine their light even more ardently upon your path to this illustrious brooch from 1850.

Antique jewellery object group: brooch

Condition: excellent condition

Country of origin: France

Style: Victorian – Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.

Style specifics: The Romantic Victorian Period – Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 – 1901) into three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 – 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 -1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 – 1901).

We consider this to be of the Romantic Victorian Period. This period covers the coronation of Victoria as Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, and her marriage to King Albert and their love, their devotion to their marriage and to their country are the sources of inspiration for this period. The jewels of this period are made of intricate carvings, special techniques where the enamel is subtly worked. These techniques allowed to give the jewel a certain opulence with less precious metal needed. As precious metals were really rare at that time. Highly favoured (semi-) precious stones in this period are amethyst, coral, garnets, seed pearls and turquoises. The connotation is obviously sentimental, symbolic and romantic with reminiscent Gothic and/or Renaissance patterns and abundant use of motifs like anchors, birds, branches, crosses, hearts and snakes.

Period: ca. 1850

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature

Theme: Star

Material: Silver on top and backed with 18ct red gold.

Extra information: Halley’s comet – It could be possible that the brooch was made to celebrate the passage of Halley’s comet. The passage of Halley inspired jewellers to make jewels in the shape of celestial bodies. This comet appears every 76 years. In 1705 Edmond Halley predicted, using Newton’s newly formulated laws of motion, that the comet seen in 1531, 1607, and 1682 would return in 1758 (which was, alas, after his death). The comet did indeed return as predicted and was later named in his honour.

Diamond(s): One old European cut diamond with an estimated weight of 0.55ct. (colour and clarity: G/H, vs/si).
70 old brilliant-cut diamonds with an estimated weight of 5.25ct. (colour and clarity: F/H, vs/si).
Five rose cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.

Total diamond count: 76 pcs.

Total diamond weight: approx. 5.75 crt. (without rose cut diamond) with an average colour and clarity: F/H, vs/si.

– All diamond weights, colour grades and clarity are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April.

Hallmarks: The French control marks representing an eagle’s head next to a wild boars head that was in use in France from about 1838. This hallmark was used for jewels that were made both in gold and in silver.

Dimensions: diameter Ø 3,86 cm (1,52 inch)

Weight: 20,20 gram (12,99 dwt)