Antique Victorian Enamel and Gem Set Gold Fringe Brooch

Antique jewellery object group: brooch

Condition: excellent condition

Country of origin: Although it does not carry any legible control marks we believe this to be of Belgian origin.

Style: Victorian – Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.

Style specifics: The Grand Victorian Period – Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 – 1901) into three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 – 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 – 1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 – 1901).

We consider this to be of the Grand Victorian Period.

This second Victorian period is famous for its ostentatious pieces set with pearls and diamonds (from South Africa). From ca. 1850 wealthy English had reported about jewellery from India and Japan, which heavily inspired the jewellers of this period. This period also corresponds with the death of Queen Victoria’s husband King Albert making mourning jewellery (set with heavy dark stones) the type of jewellery specific for this period.

Period: ca. 1870

Material: 18ct yellow gold

Technique: Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enamelling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colourful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, “an enamel” is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coatings, such as a champlevé or a cloisonné (different techniques).

Diamond(s): One old European cut diamond with an estimated weight of 0.30ct.
Three old brilliant-cut diamonds with an estimated weight of 0.60ct.

Total diamond count: Four pcs.

Total diamond weight: approx. 0.90 ct. with an average colour and clarity: H/K, si/i.

– All diamond weights, colour grades and clarity are approximate since stones are not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Precious stones: 12 natural rubies
Six natural pearls

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April, ruby for July and pearl for June.

Hallmarks: No trace.

Dimensions: 8,53 cm (3,36 inch) x 4,14 cm (1,63 inch)

Weight: 22,80 gram (14,66 dwt)