Antique Art Nouveau Plique A Jour Enamel Pendant Brooch

This exceptional 18ct rose gold Art Nouveau pendant as well as brooch truly comes to life through the complementary enamelling around the bas-relief chased profile of a nymph. While gazing to the west, this enchanting creature sights two shooting stars made of old mine brilliant cut diamonds amidst a pink and yellow enamelled summer dusk. As a wish upon a star, a pearl embellishes the pair of plique-à-jour enamelled green and blue wings while they embrace this abloomed dame.

A very similar jewel is depicted on picture # 30 in the book “Art Nouveau Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker (1985, Thames and Hudson, ISBN 0-525-24345-3)

Antique jewellery object group: Combined brooch-pendant: Although plique a jour enamel is delicate by its very nature this piece is eminently wearable. Thanks to the later addition of a loop on the back it can be worn, either as a brooch or a pendant and in the right setting it would make a truly noble conversation piece.

Country of origin: Although it does not carry any legible control marks we believe this to be of French origin.

Style: Art Nouveau

Style specifics: Although Art Nouveau took on distinctly localised tendencies as its geographic spread increase some general characteristics are indicative of the form. A description published in Pan magazine of Hermann Obrist’s wall-hanging Cyclamen (1894) described it as “sudden violent curves generated by the crack of a whip”, which became well known during the early spread of Art Nouveau.

Subsequently, not only did the work itself become better known as The Whiplash, but the term “whiplash” is frequently applied to the characteristic curves employed by Art Nouveau artists. Such decorative “whiplash” motifs, formed by dynamic, undulating, and flowing lines in a syncopated rhythm, are found throughout the architecture, painting, sculpture, and other forms of Art Nouveau design. (from: Wikipedia)

Period: ca. 1890

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature

Theme: Woman’s head with insect wings

Material: 18ct yellow gold

Technique: Plique-√†-jour, (French for “braid letting in daylight”} is a vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonn√©, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It has a stained-glass like appearance and is considered very challenging technically. (From: Wikipedia)

Extra information: brooch and pendant – Thanks to a discreetly placed ring system in the back, this jewel can also be worn either as a brooch or as a pendant. patina – Oxidation of any surface & change due to age. Natural staining or discolouration due to ageing.

Diamonds: Two old mine brilliant-cut diamonds with a total estimated weight of approx. 0.15 crt.and one rose-cut diamond. We do not have the weight of this diamond which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
Note: All diamond weights, colour grades and clarity are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Total diamond weight: approx. 0.15 crt. (without the rose cut diamond)

Precious stones: One pearl.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April and pearl for June.

Hallmarks: No trace.

Condition: extremely good condition

Dimensions: width 2.78 cm (1.09 inch)

Weight: 13.80 gram (8.87 dwt)