The jewellery of the Renaissance could be characterised as colourful, opulent and detailed. Pendants and rings were very popular and earrings and bracelets became increasingly so during the period. Along with the pieces that have survived, we can also learn a lot about the jewellery of this time and the way it was worn from contemporary portraiture. Wealthy women would wear layers of gold chains, ropes of pearls, multiple rings and pendent ornaments pinned to their clothes and even tied into the hair. Maritime voyages to new lands and the discovery of new sea routes opened up new sources of desirable goods and the opportunities to trade them. This led to gemstones, pearls and precious metals finding their way to Europe in ever increasing quantities. It also inspired nautical themed jewels with galleons, sea creatures and mermaids all popular motifs.
The revival in interest of the arts of Ancient Greece and Rome influenced both style and subject matter with cameos and intaglios of historical and mythological figures becoming fashionable. This instigated the regeneration of the craft of gem carving with Italy in particular producing large quantities of finely engraved gems which were traded across Europe.
Christian imagery in jewellery remained widespread with the sacred monogram IHS (from the Greek word for Jesus) popular throughout Europe along with depictions of biblical scenes and symbols such as sheep and pelicans worn to symbolise the Lamb of God and the Pelican in her piety. Alongside this were the Memento Mori jewels (the name deriving from the Latin for ‘Remember you must die’) which emphasised the Christian beliefs of Heaven and Hell and the need to live a good and virtuous life so as to ensure ones place in the former. Rings with enamelled skulls and skeletons were typical but pieces became more elaborate over time and the symbolism fed into the fashion for mourning jewellery which became increasingly widespread after the execution of Charles I in 1649.
Romantic love was celebrated with heart shapes, lover’s knots and depictions of cupid and it is during this time that the posy (poesy, posie) ring becomes increasingly popular. Earlier examples have the text engraved on the outside of the ring, often in French or maybe Latin but by the 17th Century, English had become more prevalent and the text had moved to the inside of the band where the message would lie against the skin strengthening its meaning. Typical phrases would include declarations such as ‘Til my live’s end’ and ‘In thee my choyce I do rejoyce’.
The Cheapside Hoard, discovered in London in 1912 has given us an incredible insight into late 16th and early 17th jewellery. It comprises a huge quantity of pieces and is believed to be the stock of a jeweller who buried it at some point during the 1620’s. From gold and enamel chains, through pendants and hair ornaments to rings and fan holders, there are pieces on display in both the Museum of London and the Victoria and Albert Museum, both of which are well worth a visit.