Leon Vaguer Antique French Garnet and 18ct Gold Dress set, Circa 1890

Measurements: 

Buttons: 14.3mm diameter (approximately)

Cufflinks: 15mm diameter (approximately)

Condition: Very good – wear consistent with age and use

Alexandre and Léon were thought to have learnt their skills in the workshop of Monsieur Toulout. Léon married Toulout’s daughter, Alice Therese Victoire Toulout, 1858-1935, on 14^th October, 1882 and had three children. On 28^th October, 1884, Léon joined forces with the Toulout brothers, who came from Nantes and set up shop in Paris, at 83 boulevard Sébastopol. The company was named Toulout frères and Pierre Léon Vaguer. Léon’s maker’s mark was registered in 1888. In 1889 the partners separated and Léon opened a shop at 37 rue Etienne Marcel. Léon Vaguer was appointed secretary, in 1894 and later became Vice President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie Joaillerie Orfèvrerie, the Union Chamber of Jewellery, Gold and Silverware. He was made vice-president of l’Orphelinat de la bijouterie, the Jewellery Orphanage and was a public education officer. According to the review of Bijouterie Joaillerie Orfèvrerie, in 1901 he was secretary of the board of directors of the Jewellery Orphanage. In all he held these positions for seventeen years. In 1897 Léon Vaguer moved to 41 rue Etienne Marcel. In 1904, Léon’s son graduated from the HEC business school, a state-recognised consular school, established in 1881.

Léon Vaguer participated in sixteen exhibitions in which he obtained five gold and silver medals. The medals were won at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900, Grand Prix in Saint Louis in 1904, in Liège in 1905, in Milan in 1908, in London in 1890 and 1908, in Saragossa (Zaragoza) in 1908, exhibiting in Copenhagen in 1909, then Grand Prix in Brussels in 1910. Exhibiting, in the French section, at the Hispano – French Exhibition, in Saragossa Léon Vaguer was awarded a Grand Prix. Amongst others to win such prizes, at the same exhibition were, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. Gold medals were awarded to Charles Besnaux, Marie Colret, Jeanne Kraemer and Emile Spot, all workers at the house of Léon Vaguer. In 1912 Léon’s son became an Academy Officer. In 1913 Léon transferred the business to his son, Maurice and the company was re-named Vaguer (Maurice).

Vivienne Becker describes most of the jewellery as being “made of platinum and their design was a compromise between conventional elegance and Art Nouveau aesthetics.” From the photographs, in the original article, Léon Vaguer’s silver-upon-gold jewellery was typical of the refined designs made in France during the period and beautifully made. Judging by the prizes awarded to Léon, the importance of his position in the jewellery industry and the quality of his workmanship it is an injustice that his name is forgotten today.

A generation continued the work of their parents, Jean Maurice Charles Vaguer born in 1883 died in 1960, and Pierre Honoré Eugêne Vaguer born in 1886 died in 1960, they were both Goldsmiths.