The Vault
Explore by topic
vault

Different types of old cut diamonds

Types of Old Cut Diamonds Old Mine Cut Diamonds


What is an old cut diamond? 

 

If you have found yourself spellbound by the sparkle of an antique or vintage diamond ring, you are in good company.  Before modern diamond cutting technology became the norm, diamonds were cut by hand or with early tools which gave them individual asymmetry and unique facet patterns. No two diamonds were the same.  We will take a look at some of the most important cuts and see how to tell them apart. 

 

Types of Antique and Vintage Diamond Cuts 

Here is a list of the most important types of antique and vintage diamond cuts: 

 

1. Antique Rose Cut Diamond 

 


Date range: 16th to the 20th century 

The antique rose cut diamond is considered one of the earliest diamond cuts, dating back to 16th century Europe.  It features a flat base and a dome with triangular facets that resemble unfolding petals of a rosebud when viewed from above.  A rose cut diamond has 3-24 facets and lacks a pavilion which means that light doesn’t bounce around inside the stone – rather, it is reflected off the surface, giving a muted glow. 

 

 

 

2. Old Mine Cut Diamond 

 

 
Date Range: Early 18th to late 19th century 

Old mine cut diamonds are square shaped with curved sides and rounded corners.  The have a small table, large culet and high crown, all contributing to their warm, romantic appearance.  They were cut entirely by hand, which resulted in a slightly asymmetric design and soft sparkle, as opposed to the striking brilliance of a modern brilliant cut diamond. 

2.54ct old mine cut diamond ring

3. Old European Cut Diamond 

 



Date range: 1870-1940 

The old European cut diamond, also known as the old round cut, evolved from the old mine cut diamond in the 1870s.  A steam-driven bruting machine was invented in 1874, which allowed for the outline of a diamond to be cut into a round shape with great precision.  This in turn enabled cutting of the facets more symmetrically which greatly improved brilliance.   

 


Six facts about old European cut diamonds: 

  1. Characterised by their round shape, small table, high crown and flat culet.   
  2. They have 58 facets, with the flat culet counting as one. 
  3. The facets of old cut diamonds were still cut by hand by skilled artisans, which gave each diamond their unique characteristics.
  4. The facets are broader than in modern brilliant cut diamonds, which results in wide flashes of light, sometimes referred to as “chunky fire”.
  5. Old cut diamonds were cut to maximise sparkle in candlelight, as they predated common use of electric lights.
  6. Many old cut diamonds were cut between the 1870s and the 1940s and by the turn of the century the round old cut diamond had surpassed the old mine cut diamond in popularity.   

  

Old cut diamond rings of various sizes

4. Antique Cushion Cut Diamond 

 

 
Date Range: Circa 1880 to 1930 

The antique cushion cut diamond is the shape of a plush cushion - square or rectangular with soft, rounded corners.  It has a high crown, small table and a flat culet which is visible to the eye.  It descends from the old mine cut but possesses more refined brilliance due to the advances in cutting technique.  

4ct cushion cut diamond ring

Compared with this modern 2ct cushion cut diamond

5. Antique Asscher Cut Diamond 

 

 

 
Date Range: 1902 to 1940 
In 1902 the famous diamond-cutting Asscher family patented the Assher cut diamond: a square-shaped emerald cut with clipped corners.  It took a couple of decades before it gained a proper following, but when Art Deco swept the world the Asscher cut diamond with its geometric shape and “hall of mirrors” effect was the embodiment of this new movement and it became a great source of inspiration for houses like Cartier.  Its step cut design creates a timeless look that has mesmerised an audience for over a century.   

 

Four facts about the Antique Asscher Cut Diamond: 

  1. A prominent culet at the very bottom.
  2. A high crown and small table.
  3. The corners of antique Asscher-cut diamonds are usually prominent and give the diamond an almost octagonal look.
  4. The open facets of an Asscher cut make inclusions more visible so only high clarity stones are suitable for this cut.  

 

6. Antique Emerald Cut Diamond 


Date Range: 1500s to 1940 

The rectangular emerald cut diamond with its hall of mirrors rose to prominence in the Art Deco era as its clean lines depicted the style of the movement.  The emerald cut was indeed perfected in this time period but its origins date back to the 1500s.  At this time stonecutters cut emerald stones into this cut as pressure was reduced during the cutting process and there was less risk of chipping the stone.  Diamond cutters made note of this, and the emerald diamond cut was born. 

 

Three facts about antique emerald cut diamonds: 

  1. The antique emerald cut diamond has roughly 58 facets with a visible culet at the bottom. 
  2. The features are similar to those of the Asscher cut diamond; the dimensions of the stones are the main difference.   
  3. The rectangular step cut design creates the famous "hall of mirrors" effect. 

 

7. Old Single Cut Diamond 


Date Range: Circa 1800 to 1950

The old single cut diamond dates back to 1800 and spans the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras.  It only features 17-18 facets so it was rarely used as a centre stone, however it was a popular choice for a side stone in jewellery.  It only started falling out of fashion in the 1930s when the old European cut diamond became the favoured stone.