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Facts on Art Deco Rings, 1920-1935

Art Deco Rings Facts

Art Deco jewellery spans the years 1920 to 1939, a period defined by glamour, innovation and bold design. Today, Art Deco rings remain highly sought after by collectors and vintage jewellery enthusiasts.

The quick checklist:

Rings from the 1920s were typically set in platinum, with
white gold emerging and yellow gold still in use
Designs featured strong geometric lines and bold, structured
shapes
Coloured gemstones were common, cabochon cuts especially popular in this period

Art Deco Engagement Ring Styles

Single stone Art Deco diamond engagement ring old mine cut

Art Deco old cut diamond ring with diamond shoulders in platinum.

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Art Deco Emerald Cut Halo Diamond Ring

Art Deco cushion cut diamond engagement ring

Art Deco Cushion Cut Diamond Ring

Art Deco Old Cut Diamond Halo Ring

What gemstones were popular in the Art Deco period

Art Deco rings often featured a combination of coloured gemstones and diamonds. Commonly used stones included lapis lazuli, onyx, rock crystal, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and cabochon-cut gems.

During this period, there was also a growing popularity of other gemstones such as aquamarine, pearls, coral, and turquoise.

The use of synthetic, man-made sapphire, rubies and emerald
became widely available and were valued for their flawless clarity and
consistent colour, making them a popular choice in Art Deco jewellery design.

Coral

Turquoise

Natural pearl

Which Gemstone & Diamond Cuts Were Popular in Art Deco Jewellery

Art Deco jewellery (1920–1939) is defined by its bold, geometric style, reflected in the cuts of its diamonds and gemstones. Step cuts such as emerald, baguette and Asscher were especially popular for their clean lines, while old European cut diamonds offered a softer, vintage brilliance. Calibré-cut and cabochon stones added strong colour and contrast, often shaped to fit precise, architectural designs. Together, these cuts created the distinctive, structured elegance that defines Art Deco jewellery.

1920s Step Cuts in Diamond and Gemstones

Art Deco Colombian Emerald and Diamond Cluster Engagement Ring

Emerald cut

The emerald cut, with its distinctive cropped corners, was widely used in Art Deco jewellery, particularly for diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, aquamarines and amethysts.

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Art Deco French Baguette and Brilliant Diamond Tank Ring in Platinum

Baguette Cuts

Baguette cuts were widely used in Art Deco rings for their long, narrow shape and clean lines. Often set as side stones, they enhanced the geometric, symmetrical designs of the period

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Art Deco Antique 1.25ct Asscher Cut Diamond Ring

Asscher & Square Cut

The Asscher cut is a square-shaped diamond or gemstone cut with cropped corners and large step facets. Known for its “hall of mirrors” effect, it became popular during the Art Deco era for its elegant, geometric style that matched the period’s architectural designs

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Smaller Stone cuts

French cut

The French cut diamond, popular in Art Deco rings, is a square or rectangular step-cut featuring a flat top with small facets that form a subtle point, reflecting the natural shape of the rough diamond crystal. It is also one of the rarest and hardest-to-find diamond cuts from this period

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Art Deco 4ct Oval Sapphire and Diamond Cluster Dress Ring

Calibre Cuts

Calibré-cut stones were widely used in Art Deco jewellery tocreate precise geometric patterns and seamless colour inlays. Typically shapedas squares, rectangles, triangles, or trapezoids, they were set with sapphires,rubies, emeralds, or onyx. Favoured in the 1920s–1930s, these cuts emphasisedsymmetry.

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Art Deco Old Cuts Diamonds

Old European Cut

Old European cut diamonds were the most popular choice forArt Deco rings, with a round shape, high crown, small table, and large facetsthat give a soft, vintage sparkle. Later, they were replaced by Transitionalcuts for a more refined brilliance

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Old Mine Cut

Old Mine cut diamonds were hand-cut, meaning no two stones are thesame. They are typically cushion-shaped or slightly off-round, with a smalltable, high crown, and large, chunky facets. A noticeable open culet is oftenvisible. These diamonds were commonly used in early Art Deco rings and areknown for their slightly irregular, handcrafted appearance

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Which Metals were used in Art Deco Jewellery

Platinum:

Platinum was the most commonly used metal in Art Deco jewellery. It is strong
and durable, making it ideal for fine, detailed settings that securely hold
diamonds and gemstones. Its natural white colour also enhances the brilliance
of diamonds and suits the clean, geometric style of the period.

White Gold:

During the 1920s, white gold became a popular alternative to platinum as it was
more affordable at the time. It has a similar bright, silvery appearance and
was widely used to achieve the same sleek Art Deco look. Today, this has
largely reversed, with gold often more expensive than platinum.

Yellow Gold:

Yellow gold was still used, particularly in earlier Art Deco
pieces. It often appeared in ring bands or hidden details, adding warmth and
contrast to designs that mainly featured white metals.

Platinum

White Gold

Yellow Gold

The different styles of Art Deco Rings

Colourful Cocktail Rings

In the 1920’s, bold, abstract and colourful forms were in vogue. The use of brightly coloured stones was high, especially semi-precious stones such as aquamarines, citrines and zircons.

Which meant the use of diamonds was used more to create a contrast with darker stones.

Art Deco Eternity Rings

These were either set with diamonds or calibre cut stones rubies, sapphire and sometimes emeralds and worn in various combinations on the same finger.

One of the more popular designs was a three-row swivel ring which you could change from day to night.

1920’s Sapphire and Diamond Dress Ring

Long oval cluster rings were popular with a gemstone like sapphire emerald ro ruby to the centre and old cut or single cut diamonds to the surround.

Onyx and Diamond Dress Ring

This was a popular ring style of the 1920s—onyx and diamond dress rings typically featured a central diamond, framed by an onyx plaque in round, square or elongated forms, often complemented by fine engraving to the band and undergallery.

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Why is the Art Deco era so sought after today?

Emerging from the glamour of the Roaring Twenties, Art Deco
jewellery captured a spirit of optimism, sophistication and modernity. It
reflected a transformative moment in history—when women embraced newfound independence and fashion evolved towards elegance without restriction.

Its refined geometry and bold aesthetic have shaped everything from fine art to iconic architecture such as the Empire State Building. Today, this enduring legacy is reflected in the continued desire for Art Deco jewellery, with rings in particular prized for their timeless
elegance, distinctive character and unmistakable sense of luxury.